I believe last night was the coldest day of the year, but not with a shot of whiskey in me.  As parts are rolling in, I'm wondering how they actually work because they are instructionless, without papers, banned from any Country, except mine of course.  Well, the last time I took an IQ test it told me I should put things together without instructions.  Oddly, that doesn't sound very bright - maybe that's why I scored above average.  I must admit I only took the test 4 times, remembered all the answers and of course the allotted time had expired the first 3 times.  Anyway, since most things that I'm purchasing are recycled; what to do?  I am looking at these items as they are as objects to serve a purpose.  Knowing me - I might try it in reverse intentionally or sometimes by accident to see if I think it will improve the design or logic of it if that's logical at all.  One such item I'm reviewing is a hydrofoil.

Hydrofoils can help with planing, prop wash, steering, stern lift. Knowing hp will be a limiter - I considered my options to improve hypothetical planing issues.  Logic tells me not to drill holes in the anti-cavitation plate prior to a test run without it.  This isn't a speed boat, this isn't ski boat, this is just a boat.  It floats on most days and I'm trying to get it to run right - not on rocket fuel or hopes and dreams I did away with those long ago.  So, no instructions means to refer to the web for answers, clues, and insight.  Hell, the instructions may reside on the manufacturers website, but why take the fun out of it.  Well, one things for shore (i just had to on the spelling), when looking at jobs completed one must ask:  Does that make sense?  Judging from the above picture - no.  Why drag your nuts?  Boy... that didn't sound right.  Here's my solution, flip the nuts over and put the smooth side bolt heads on the bottom to reduce friction.  Maybe it suppose to be installed like that - but not accorded to the installer in the above picture.  Unless, he likes to put things on backwards, as well. You know - to see if it works better.    

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Honda 9.9 and 15 Outboard Remote Control Throttle Kit:

This would have been much easier with directions – really not sure why they were not included.  I only found 1 picture on the web – so all those out there looking to do the same here’s # 2.  I would keep it as a tiller handle setup - but that's not how my boat is setup.

I’m planning on wiring the kill/stop switch up to the remote control.  Logically, I’d rather have the switch with a lanyard forward in the event that I’m fishing alone, etc.   So far I like Honda’s thinking.  When it came to installing the kit things were pretty straight forward. Just make note that the shift leveler goes on the starboard side directly in-front of the charging cable outlet and the throttle attaches inside the carburetor's arm plate port side. Oh yeah, this a PULL version - not common knowledge.  I'm going to use a Morse MV-3 Control - I got a good deal on a used one recycled out of a ski boat.  I know this will accept 33c cables and are universal - push/pull customers choice. Also, it has a brake on it which makes going out on the boat a little safer.   

After some consideration - I think I'm going to rebuild the carburetors. It just makes more sense to do it now.  Hopefully, in another month or so I'll have things all pulled together. I'll have to wait for one warmer day with low wind to paint.  Kind of looking forward to finishing it.  I'll still need to get the lower unit, battery, wiring and parts installed.  And, if I have time I'd like to reconsider the bow of the boat by bringing the seat around to its sides more like a bow rider for storage, etc.  Also, I've got a new boat cover on the way from Wholesale Marine.  The tarp that's on there now is not road worthy, so I can do the 2 birds, 1 stone thing.      

  

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Welcome to the 9.9 hp lake modification.  Where all pre-'97 Honda 9.9 outboard owners go to modify their engine to 13.2 hp!

The snow has come back and I have started thinking about my little winter project again...

After muscling my Yamaha 40 hp parts motor off the portable stand and getting the lighter Honda 9.9 on it - from the looks of things the Honda it seems very easy to work on.  The Yamaha was super compact while this is pretty much all accessible.

One of the things that interest me about this year Honda was that it’s the same as the 15 hp unlike later years minus a change or 2.  Instead of re-jetting the carburetor, I can simply take off the limiter screw and gain a few more coy fish.  They are made in Japan like the Yamaha.  I like American made products – but I have not found a 4 stroke in this size made by an American Co. worth pursuing.

By removing the limiter screw - it allows the carburetor to fully open giving it a whopping 3.3 hp more.  Anymore hp and I’d be racing.  Actually, with a little more power I think it’ll be easier getting onto plane because I’m kinda of pushing it with the smaller outboard.  Some say never modified an outboard out of manufacturer spec – but who cares.  If it was that big of a deal they wouldn’t have the limiter screw to begin with – I hope.    

If you can locate the green dot - you've located where the screw use to be.  Um...yeah.... I still don't have a working lower unit, but I'm upping my hp 1st?  That's right and you can now do it too!       

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What's that? An old Honda 9.9 4 stroke running unlike the one I purchased yesterday in Louisville, KY.

I've hit the local Lakes like Caesars Creek, East Fork, and Brookville; I've had fun on those unlimited hp waters. All very nice and well maintained.  But, I think my little boat would be better served as a 9.9 fishing boat.  When selecting a different outboard - I looked at all brands out there and this one seemed to be a good choice and within reach - pun intended.  The Honda 9.9 4 stroke only weighs 96 lbs, getting about 30lbs off the stern compared to the 40 hp. Additionally, the major benefits of 4 stroke technology which are low emissions and quiet. The low emissions are seen with oil being reused over and over unlike the 2 stroke burning off oil that's entering the firing chamber causing exhaust smoke. It also uses less fuel, 4 strokes compared to 2 stokes per firing. It's also what I refer to as a recycled item ready to run on its next cycle that is once I get it running. She's a green beauty but looking more like a lemon at the outset. Hopefully, I can find a good lower unit gearcase and a drive shaft before spring hits. Might not be a bad idea to go ahead and tune it up prior to first fire.

I was also missing a propeller. That might help to have one of those, so I got a cupped 4 blade 9 1/2 8P which I'm betting dollar to donuts is the best all around preforming propeller.

For my application - here are the variables I considered: weight, hull type, stroke, purpose and hp measured at the prop. With the boat being Super lightweight do to the thin fiberglass and primarily having an outer fiberglass hull - I knew I needed a lightweight outboard.  One factor most boaters do not have to deal with is the bottom blueprint, too. The Waterwonderland has a lifted keel design that flattens out 3 ft from the transom like an opened ended hook.  The reasoning behind this is to get the boat on plane, quickly. This eliminates the stern from holding up the bow from coming down onto plane. The issue with this is ventilation. The prop can no longer bite the water, this was often found when turning and riding over small waves. After trying several outboard heights leading to a transom revision, it now runs efficiently with a smaller diameter, higher pitch, cupped, stainless steel 4 blade prop. And, of course the rule of thumb is to read your rpms at WOT(wide open throttle) when factoring in your prop diameter and pitch.  I'll do exactly the same once I get the 9.9 on the back of her. 

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